Guadalajara, Jalisco — Guadalajara, Mexico

Guadalajara, Mexico

Guadalajara was home sweet home for five weeks during my summer in México. It’s the capital of Jalisco state and with over 6 million people, is México’s second largest city. I lived with my host family and roommates in the Minerva/Los Arcos district, west of the city centre. It’s easy to get around the city by public bus (4.5 pesos) or by taxi.

My educational experience revolved around CEPE (Centro de Estudios para Extranjeros), about a 10-min walk from my house. It’s part of the Universidad de Guadalajara, México’s second largest university which has numerous campuses throughout the city. I had classes from 8-10 am and 12-2 pm.

Guadalajara has a beautiful city centre that is rich in colonial architecture. The Cathedral, churches, government buildings, museums, plazas, fountains and San Juan de Dios market are all located within walking distance of each other. The fountain in Plaza Guadalajara, directly across from the Cathedral, was always a favourite place for my friends and I to meet before exploring the city.

Here are some photos from my first days in the city, July 16-18..

Cusco, so much I could have seen… — Cusco, Peru

Cusco, Peru

We got to Cusco in the early afternoon. I asked a random lady at the station where exactly on the map we were, she showed me and told be that a cab to my destination should be no more than 4 soles. As soon as I left the building I was approached by a cabby, he quoted me 10 soles, I had to laugh out loud… and continued further onto the main road where I found a one for 4 soles. After checking in Michael and I went to a cheap restaurant around the corner (have to love menu del dias… 7 soles for a 3 course meal including a drink). Back at the hostel we met up with Svenja and Yannik.

The following day I slept in, which was sooo nice. We went for a bit of a wander that day, and once again enjoyed a nice and cheap menu del dia. The weather in the afternoon was dark and rainy, therefore we didnt do much.

Its Yanniks birthday, so we went out for a birthday breakfast. I had been a kind of sick the previous days, and as it was only getting worse I decided to go to the hospital. Here I was informed that I had a very bad bladder infection and had to stay atleast one night (it turned into 2 nights).

I felt a lot better after my 2 days in the hospital and was happy that I was cleared to do the Inca trail. Back at the hostel I ran into a british couple that we hung out with in salta and sucre. I also ran into a German guy I met in Huacachina. The 4 or us and a random australian went out for lunch togther. After this I went to the tour company that I was doing the Inca trail with to pay my outstanding bill. When I got out of the office it started pooring so i hurried back to the hostel. In my room I bumbed into Majolein, the dutch girl that traveled with us from salta to potosi and we met again several times in Bolivia and Peru.

By the screams Au! Au! Au! in the middle of the night we were made a aware that michael had returned from Matchu Picchu and was also in our room. (Michael screamed this in his sleep pretty much every night)

My last day before started the Inca trail I spent walking around town, trying to see as much as possible. Then after lunch and going to the post office (and buying some cool green comfy pants) Majolein and I went to a black market in town. I wanted to buy a new rain jacket as mine wasnt really waterproof, but all the ones they had on offer were tooo warm. When we returned from this hard afternoon of shopping, we felt like we had earned ourselves a massage (very cheap and very nice). Apon return to the hostel I was greated with a nice indian curry cooked by the guy of the english couple. As I had to get up at 5 the next morning I went to bed fairly early and said good bye to Micheal who was going to fly home.

Back in South America — Santiago, Chile

Santiago, Chile

After a short sojourn in Toronto and a whole lot of flying the last few days I´m now back in South America. This time, I am in Santiago, Chile, hoping to see a bit of the city today and then figure out a way to get to San Pedro de Atacama up north tomorrow, in time to meet Hiyasmin, Kushal, Andy, and Julia there on March 11. Unfortunately, I have a bit of a cold that I caught from moving from Peru’s desert coast to Toronto’s winter freeze…

Some may think I´m a bit crazy for going back home for just a couple of days, only to return. But this continent hopping of the Americas made some sense, as I got to see my family, give them various articles of alpaca as gifts, and got to eat good sushi and si****ng. If nothing else, I also get to rack up tens of thousands of frequent flyer miles along the way…

There is a striking difference between Santiago and Lima, the two South American capitals I´ve visited (as well as Chile and Peru in general). Santiago essentially seems like a global, modern city with plenty of good infrastructure that manages to retain its colonial charm whereas Lima is chaotic and disorderly despite its rich colonial heritage, and outside of the Plaza de Armas and some of the surrounding blocks, is not very pleasant to walk around. There´s definitely less taxis (the Daewoos that have long surpassed their shelf life) here than in Lima as well…

Beautiful morning — Yangshuo, China

Yangshuo, China

We are behind in the blog but here is a taste of the beautiful town of Yangshuo. The weather is mild – Doug has even got his sunglasses out. Off for a cruise of the Li River on a bamboo boat ….. More to follow this evening ….

Angkor — Cambodia, Indonesia

Cambodia, Indonesia

Yesterday we traveled to Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom
it was the best experience of my life to see the worlds biggest temple and to see my 1st wonder of the world. Our guide is very helpful with a name we cant remember most of the time btw his name is sahan pretty sure but today we travel to the overgrown temple with mister Winn, our driver and then to the FLOATING MARKETS overal it was great fun tell you how it went tommoz.

A Capital Surprise — Bogota, Colombia

Bogota, Colombia

Well, Bogota, you surprised me. I’m impressed.

I don’t tend to like capital cities, it’s no big secret. Buenos Aires, although hip and happening, is a bit too big. Lima is simply too dangerous and congested to enjoy. I spent more time in Quito than I should have, and for no particularly good reason. And it took me living in Sydney to truly appreciate its value.

Bogota somehow struck a different chord with me. I’m not saying I fell in love with it – either straight away or at all – but there was something familiar about it from the moment I left the bus terminal. It sounds strange, because its less-affluent suburbs are easily as derelict and wino-ridden as any other city in South America, but that didn’t seem to bother me. I’m sure that the neighbourhood I stayed in, La Candelaria, had something to do with it; cobblestone streets, historic buildings, hillsides just behind, and within walking distance from most of the traps frequented by tourists. But that can’t have been all of it.

I’ve put it down to this: security, and Colombia and Colombians. I’ve been told dozens of stories about the security situation in Bogota, but the truth is I never felt threatened or endangered in any way. The police presence perhaps has something to do with that. I walked up to the top of Cerro Monserrate, a hill of 3100m sitting just behind La Candelaria, the walking path of which has been plagued in the last year or two by thieves and muggers. Nowadays a rather large contingent of fluorescent-vested officers adorn the path like permanent fixtures, enforcing order through their presence alone. Not having to worry about having a knife held to my chest or throat on the ascent made it and the rewarding, smoggy view at the top that much more enjoyable. And that’s how I felt in the rest of Bogota, just walking around. Safe. Which is new for me in a city so big.

And then, of course, there’s Colombia and Colombians. I love both. I’ve been torn between Ecuador and Colombia as my favourite country, but recently Colombia has won out. I’ve seen less of it, but I’ve enjoyed what I’ve seen even more. And, more importantly, the people are a much more amicable bunch up this way. Ecuadorians are friendly enough, don’t get me wrong, but they could learn a thing or two from their northern neighbours. And perhaps this, more than anything, is what made me feel so relaxed even in a city of nine million people, like Bogota. I didn’t come in with any prejudices like I did to BA, Lima or Quito. I have felt so comfortable in Colombia overall that I think – at least subconsciously – I extended that sentiment to the country’s largest city and came in with a clear mind, unhindered by tourism horror stories or any preconceptions.

The other suggestion is that I’m simply maturing and becoming more comfortable as a backpacker … but that’s just silly.

a too quick visit — Glasgow, United Kingdom

Glasgow, United Kingdom

Leaving Edinburgh we caught a train to Glasgow. We spent organising for Europe and doing the washing (very grumpy laundromat owner). We still had time to do a hop on hop off tour all around the new, much improved and cleaned up Glasgow. The city has certainly re-invented itself Gone are the slums that used to house all the people who worked on the shipping yards. In there place are shopping malls, libraries, theaters and gardens.

The city buildings have been cleaned up an given a facelift. Glasgow gives the impression of a city going places.

I think for anyone who likes shopping, Glasgow is the place to be – fortunately I hate shopping.

Will ye’ no come back again……..We probably will. Its now we leave Britain behind………

Next stop Europe

Death in Mexico — Palenque, Mexico

Palenque, Mexico

No México há uma relação de proximidade com a morte ímpar, à primeira vista um pouco mórbida. Esqueletos vestidos, desnudos, enfeitam lojas, parece dar as boas vindas a todos os que passam. Esta relação é profundamente simbólica e encontra-se enraizadas na história e tradição do méxico.

Entre os dias um e dois de Novembro celebram-se o dias dos mortos, de todos os santos. Figuras mórbidas, esqueletos, são vestidos a rigor, partilham as ruas com todos. Os simbolismos são diversos. Este tributo revela a importância dos ancestrais na vida das pessoas, mas também que se deve valorizar a vida e procurar vivê-la da melhor maneira, aproveitando os ensinamentos e experiências passadas. Não há que ter medo, há que valoriza-la e entender o seu significado na missão que se procura cumprir até que um senhor desses cheio de ossos e com uma sweater de capuz preto mais uma foice, aparece para nos levar para outro lado.

http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/D%C3%ADa_d e_Muertos

Uma das figuras mais carismáticas deste tema é a “Calavera garbancera”, que representa també uma critica social por parte do cartoonista José Guadalpe Posada, objecto de um upgrade por parte de Diego Riviera, de um dos artistas (muralista) mais famosos da cultura Mexicana, marido de Frida Khalo. No dia dos mortos, esta senhora, baptizada por Diego de Catrina, aparece enfeitada com as mais ricas roupas e adereços. A morte ostentadora, é uma critica a quem nada possui mas que procura levar um nível de vida de luxo, de abundância, um oco que toca a muita gente…que também conheço…vá, não é assim tanta, mas, digamos que, um pouco por todo lado, esta Catrina poderia desfilar no seu maior esplendor.

Nas ruas, cada um parece ter uma explicação destinta para o tema da morte que, na sua essencia, parece ser a mesma. As caveiras desfilam-se por monstras, por casas, no campo, por entradas de negócios. Esta naturalidade já não impressiona. Afinal de contas, nunca deveria ser tabu, só devemos aceita-la como certa e, portanto convive na cultura popular.

No entanto, só os impostos é que são certos!…não é certo que a morte tenha que aparecer sempre…apesar do que se ter verificado até hoje, por azar, é que seja tomada como certa…bem, mas este é outro tema…e há um rolo de metros e metros de pano que tenho aqui (chegam para muito mais do que mangas)…

http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Catrina

New Threads, Cheap Beer and Hot stones — Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An was a welcomed sight after an early morning, thankfully non interrupted, 4 hour bus ride. We have heard from many people along the way about the beauty of Hoi An and it has quickly become one of our favourite citys in the country. Hoi An is knowing for it’s tailoring and garment making and as soon as we walked down the street you could tell – every 2 out of 3 shops would be a tailor, thrown in with some shoe makers and some opticians – but this place was made for shopping so we decided to oblige. After doing some research on dodgy tailors and what to look out for we headed for place called A Dong Silk. Straight away we each had our own assistant and James and I were picking out our suit material and designs. This was soo much fun, and I’ve never realised how many different parts need to be thought of when making a suit, like what angle my pockets will be?? Luckily our little Vietnamese ladies were here to help. After spending 3 or so hours there we we’re both settled on a series of suits and shirts to be whipped up from scratch for a fitting tomorrow. During this Leanne was going through aisles and aisles after materials for her garments so we decided to head off and get some shoes made for us. James and I spent about 30 mins just looking at different types of shows from magazine pages and decided on a few and they were straight onto measuring our feet to make them perfect for us. We wandered back to the tailor to find Leanne finishing up with her order and decided after seeing the price tags for everything it was time for a cheap drink and dinner.

The next morning, it was raining again but we decided we’d hire a bicycle and spend the day heading to the beach and seeing the area. This was a much better way of seeing the town. We headed for the beach, biking through little villages and farmers fields and then ended up biking a fair bit of the way with some school kids which they thought was a riot! We soon realised that we werent even heading for the beach though so it was some back tracking but we soon ended up at a tropical beach in a storm. We were planning on swimming but when the Vietnamese have a sign up saying “Do not swim, Strong currents”, you have to listen because no where else have we seen a warning sign for anything. So we cycled back into town and got ready for our first fitting of our Clothes. We arrived at the tailors and they were so happy to see us again and so friendly and all of our clothes were near finished already or at least in a state that we could try them on to see if we needed any alterations. The same then followed for the shoes and it was back on our bikes to find somewhere to wind down from the day. It started with beers that were 4000 dong which equals roughly 12pence back home! what a result! Needless to say we stayed there for a few hours and on our way to find dinner we got our attention grabbed by a lady at a Spa close to our hotel. She told us she would do a Hot Stone Massage for us for 90 mins at half the price! We were sold! We we’re all in agreeance during and after that this was by far the best massage we’d ever had – Much better than the Thai ones we had had and Lady doing mine kept putting me in positions I thought only the inidans and there Karma Sutra types could do, which the other all thought was hilarious. 90 mins definitley well spent. We’ve still got two more days here, with more fittings and hopefully seeing the sun come out on the cards so will catch up again soon.

Ruta 40 — El Bolson, Argentina

El Bolson, Argentina

The drive to El Bolson is down Argentina’s notorious Ruta 40, very stony, very dusty, very slow, and very long, and if you meet one vehicle every 4 hours its rush hour. Because there’s not much action I feel constrained to insert a piece of my famous human observation. In Argentina, and centred in El Calafate there is a popular brand of ice cream called Tit. We followed a delivery van for 2k’s with this logo plastered on the back and I thought it was the Argentine version of “How am I driving”, but what a wonderful brand name for an ice cream. Many will have already formulated their advertising campaign based on mutual sharing, or want a lick of my……….at this stage the rigorous censorship machine based on Orwells 1984 has kicked into gear, and there will be no more of this banal rubbish. Anyway 250k a day is enough for Ruta 40 so we bush camped in utter peace and tranquillity with only the soaring condors to keep us company. Next day we set off early doors (or was it late doors) and given that we had not seen a human or a vehicle for about 16 hours we were surprised to come across a Polish hitchhiker. He had camped on the side of the road and had also not seen evidence of humanity for many hours, so he was pretty grateful to see us, especially as we had some water. Strangely he was not a builder, but a professional photographer of some repute so he said, and he had photographed such dignitaries as Lech Walensa, Jan Tomasewski, and the Pope. (that was his order of importance). But he was a very talented lad and as we visited some prehistoric caves with paintings in them he made the paintings actually look interesting even though my 3 year old granddaughter Daisy has more talent than 10000 year old homo sapiens.

We dropped him off 2 days later and Janet like a good mum-substitute had to make sure he got a decent lift, even thumbing one surprised Argentinian long distance trucker who had never seen so seasoned a hitcher before. The car seemed a bit empty after that but it was only a short hop to El Bolson, home of the hippy and the micro brewery. Home also now to clouds of volcanic ash which have blown in from a recent Chilean eruption. Its just not pleasant with the dust getting everywhere so we are going to Chile where the eruption has come from. There it is perfectly clear, and the scenery is just as good. In a fit of unusual generosity (ie Janet stole my credit card) we have booked Christmas in a top class Chilean hotel where the worst customer feedback was that you can’t put toilet paper down the bog, it has to be placed in a special receptcle. “What’s toilet paper” was our response.

And finally a Happy Christmas to anyone reading this rubbish